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Last week, from 27 April until 3 May, I was in the Frankenjura for the first time, with some other climbers of the Dutch Climbing Team and coach Mathieu Ceron until 29 April, second part of the week with my father, brother and sister. We left in the evening from Eindhoven and set up the tent in the snow at Oma Eichler after midnight. I was happy that I was never cold these days, but I really had to get used to how cold the rock was to my hands…


Mathieu knew the area well and had selected some nice routes in various crags for us, and after the first wet and cold day, the weather became good for climbing. I quickly sent a 7B on my first day and the second day I sent my first 9+ in the 2nd attempt ("Lochverstärker" in the Kuhkirchner Wand). Mathieu told me that it was a 7C+, my second :-) After Mathieu had to leave for the Dutch Bouldering Chamionship 2016, Leto Cavé and I stayed to climb our project "Tanz der Arroganz" in the Bärenschlucht. Also 9+, but this was a real 8A as Mathieu had told us. In the topo it was described as 'phantastische Ausdauerkletterei, leider sind die ersten Meter etwas bröselig (crumbly)'. I can fully confirm that and add that the entry is rather wet, so not good in the morning…

On Saturday Mathieu instructed me to take a rest, so I belayed Leto to try all the moves and during his first attempts. On Sunday I could start trying myself. What a cool route! I spent quite some time to find the optimal way to link all the moves and I found new beta for Leto and myself for the first crux. Then Leto and I took turns to try to send it, all failed. After lunch Leto did his final attempt before he had to go home, and sent it! Unfortunately he had to leave soon after. Because I was a bit tired after my first 2 attempts, I took a brief sleep. After that I really felt ready for it - but my third attempt was a complete failure. Because I fell so quickly, it did not cost much energy, fortunately. After 10 minutes I tried again and now everything worked out exactly as I had planned! I was completely in my flow and 100% driven and felt strong from beginning to send, my first 8A! So happy and psyched to make it! In the evening I had a delicious home made Torte of Oma Eichler to celebrate.

Watch the video taken by my sister here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwojFKihkgg

2 Days later I tried to do the variant ("Poseidon", 10- / 8A+) right of "Tanz der Arroganz", but I could not make it. I should have been warned by the topo description: 'mit >1,80m Spannweite deutlich leichter'…. so true :-( But there was no time left to start an all new project. I will be back when I have grown taller, only 10 cm to go! In the meantime, follow me on Mischa Radt Climbing.